“I always felt like surfing belonged to everyone, not the guy with the most money.”
— John Severson, 1933-2017, painter, filmmaker, photographer, writer, publisher Surfer Magazine, Goodbye in 2017
John Severson was once the starting point for defining surf culture. He became marginalized and forgotten as commercialization redefined the landscape of man and surf. Now a mega-million dollar industry surfing shows no resemblance to a once simple, joyful culture.
Tom Wolfe wrote of Mr. Severson and his beach crew in the 1968 book “The Pump House Gang,” After all, as Mr. Wolfe wrote, The Life was not about railing against society’s terms but living on one’s own. source